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Mike shows the structure of the shade. Anne has figured out a way to explain hermeticity.Chris is thinking about Air conditioning equipment industry. John asked about rebuilding the balcony railing. Mike is looking for waterproof porch flooring. Bullet is a reproduction of Japanese stone scaffolding. Eric is considering a career in construction in midlife.
Editor updates:
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Listener feedback 1:
Mike from Pittsburgh writes:
Hello Patrick & Crew,
I was listening to a podcast today and wanted to comment on Brian's plans for the shade structure and the crew's suggested method for installing slanted rafters to better block the sun. As it happens, we are currently building just such a structure. (For Patrick's reference, it's in Sewickley.) My first thought was to build it as suggested – screw each rafter into a joist from the end. However, my engineer quickly invalidated this plan, pointing out that such structures are indeed subject to building codes and must be constructed to support standard roof loads. His solution was to add blocks between each rafter, cut at the required angle specified by the architect based on the angle of the sun on the site. We also installed ledgers on the beams below the rafters to add additional support and keep the rafters in line during installation. The blocking is cut from the 2×4 with a miter saw set at the correct angle. It is quick and easy to create and reduces the installation and spacing of rafters. The width of this structure is just over 12 feet, so an extra block was added in the middle of the joists. To make the block a little cleaner when viewed from below, he screwed a 2×4 under the center blocking the entire length of the deck. I have included a few photos of the work in progress for your reference.
By the way, the engineers also needed 2×6 beams to connect the columns from side to side, as shown in the photo. Personally, I think this was overkill since 50 or so rafters would certainly serve the same function, but I couldn't convince him. So he covered the top of each pair with Azek 2×10, and inside he installed LED strip lighting.
If it helps,
microphone
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Listener feedback 2:
Ann from New Hampshire writes:
Hello all my favorite podcast hosts!
As a single homeowner who has struggled to seal in air for long periods of time, I heard my 84-year-old mother say, “Buildings need to breathe.” While discussing architectural science with my girlfriend's mother, I came up with a metaphor to convey this concept. A house full of holes is like trying to breathe with collapsed lungs. Once your home is completely sealed, you can intentionally bring in fresh air from outside and expel stale air, also known as breathing. If your home is full of holes, you'll end up with a large air filter that gasps every time you take a breath and can't maintain pressure.
I hope you enjoyed my analogy today. I also have a question!
I am in the process of renovating, insulating, and air-sealing a 1962 cape. The insulation contractor wants to get up to 1.5 ACH50 and said he would need either an HRV or an ERV…I think it's an ERV. My house is in central New Hampshire and I think it's zone 6…very cold. This sounds great, but I found myself on the brink of puzzling new questions such as:
Need makeup air to run your kitchen exhaust fan or bathroom exhaust fan? Why not start a fire in the giant fireplace in the middle of the house? I want to be able to do all of the above. Also, do I need a central dehumidifier? How does all this interact with an existing oil-fueled forced air heating system? Someday I would like to add a heat pump to my system to add air conditioning to my home. How do we plan all this? Is there a building science decision tree to help confused homeowners?
thank you very much!
Ann
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Listener feedback 3:
Chris from Chicago writes:
Hello FHB crew.
Wow, what a great episode! I touched on two of my favorite topics of his: the HVAC industry and dehumidification. I think there are some issues in the industry that are more acute in the residential market than in the commercial market.
First, I think many engineers view it as a job rather than a career or profession. That applies to almost every field. If you view it as a job, you probably won't have the desire or interest to learn more than is necessary to get paid. Most people just want to learn enough to do the job at a basic level. How many people are really good and are at the top of their profession? Ten%? perhaps.
At FHB, I think you meet people who are at the top of their field. Unfortunately, I don't think they represent the majority. And let's be honest: Employers usually don't want to spend the time or money to properly train their people. They fear their employees will jump ship and go to work somewhere else.
Please keep up the great show,
Chris
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Question 1: What type of wood should I use to repair/replace my porch?
asks John, a native of Western New York.
I'm looking for advice on renovating my balcony. Part of the porch floor and all of the railings and balusters will need to be replaced. Also, some of the posts have rotten bottoms and need to be “repaired.” My carpenter fixed the worst post last year by cutting it at the detail line, inserting a 4×4, and boxing the bottom with 1x lumber. It worked well, so I'm sure I got that part figured out.
Why is fir the only wood recommended by carpenters and sawmills for damaged decks/flooring? Why is sapele the only wood recommended for railings and balusters? Harder sapele for flooring? It seems that light fir is better for handrails. Also, why isn't white oak used? The price of White Oak seems to be on par with Sapele. We were planning on getting the rough 8/4 material and milling it ourselves for the railings and balusters. This house was built in Western New York in 1900. There is gingerbread trim on the top of the pouch and I want to match that, so it's preferable to keep the same design.
I love podcasts
John
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Question 2: How do I waterproof my porch floor?
Mike from Pittsburgh writes:
If you need a puzzling question, this same house (see listener feedback 1 above 0) has a lovely front porch with Douglas fir floors. The problem is that it's starting to break down. And for some reason, there's a half-finished basement underneath it. They want to replace the floor and at the same time stop the “rain” from flowing into the basement. Any ideas on how to replace the floor with wood and make the under floor EPDM? It will only lead to rapid decay.
Mike; Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
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Question 3: Can Japanese stone foundations withstand frost heave?
Brett from Philadelphia writes:
Hello FHB Podcast.
We recently completed a barn renovation and would like to install a traditional timber frame shed roof and a freestanding deck. The rafter ledger is attached at the time of siding. I would like to use traditional Japanese stone scaffolding to support the pillars of the roof and deck. My question is, how do these scaffolds work? It snows in Japan, so I think there is a frost line, but the footing is very shallow. Will the vertical stone and gravel infill somehow absorb frost heave? I try to avoid digging deeply into the foundation, but I like the traditional look of carved stone. Please advise as to whether it is crazy to try this.
Here are the resources I've gathered:
thank you,
Brett
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Question 4: Is now a good time to start a career in architecture?
Eric from Boston writes:
Hello Patrick and team,
A while back I wrote about a 1789 antique cape tilt/swivel window that we began renovating in 2021. Listening to podcasts is the highlight of my week. Thank you for the time and effort you put into its creation. The reason I'm writing again is because I'm thinking of shifting my career to work in the construction industry. As a 53-year-old, I thought it would be interesting to open, even though it might seem a little strange. For expert advice, ask our podcast team.
I currently work as a graphic/web designer, but previously worked professionally as a house painter in my late twenties, and over the past 25 years I have worked on numerous projects at home, taking on more complex projects as my skills improved. I accepted and was always looking for a job for myself. Be willing to learn new things. FHB and its resources helped us take on increasingly large projects and maintain technology, materials, and best practices. Thank you for enabling my creative tendencies!
Some of the projects I have worked on include: Improve your home's energy efficiency. Do all demos before major renovations. Rent a trench excavator to install new gas lines. Construct a new portico above the main entrance. Using locally rough-machined black locust decking, he designed and built a 15×25 cable railing deck that had to be torn out, planed and finished, and ultimately It took him three times as long. Prior to the renovation, recycled hardboard floorboards salvaged from an 18th century house were refinished and installed. Cut and install recycled flooring on new stairs. Build a kitchen island using recycled materials. Tile two bathrooms. more. I especially love reusing reclaimed wood and my wife now calls me the “Wood Whisperer.”
About 10 years ago, I went to graduate school for sustainable design/green building technology, but I wasn't transitioning into that type of work at the time. What would you recommend to someone who likes working with their hands, is passionate about lower carbon, smarter building technologies and is considering working in this industry? Am I completely crazy? I just want to work on cool projects within a community of like-minded people.
The last time I considered changing course in my career was during the economic downturn in 2008, and there was a lack of projects to work on at the time, so entering the industry wasn't an option. The timing wasn't good then, but maybe this time it will be better? Without a business partner, the idea of starting your own business and getting his GC license seems a little daunting.
Once again, thank you very much for your guidance and ideas. If you think this question is relevant to our audience, please feel free to post it on the podcast.
The best,
Eric
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