You don't need much for a delicious steak. Grill, broiler, or fry with salt, pepper, and butter. Dallas steakhouses have been following their classic recipes for years. But recently, steak manufacturers have been cheating. The beef is supported by creative sauces and novel garnishes, sometimes hidden under black paper. Here's our scouting report on the most unusual steaks around town.
Butcher's cut steak, $36
This butcher cut (hanger) is served under a green olive chimichurri that gives brightness and freshness to the meat. Chimichurri is more of a pureed sauce than a regular herb mix. I've never thought of putting olives on a steak, but I'm intrigued by the contrast between the refreshing Mediterranean flavor and the rustic 44 Farms beef. Sweet and sour grilled onions and black peas complete the picture. 1530 Main Street
Paper cut, $32
If ever there was a meal designed for Instagram, rye steak is the opposite. Yes, we use Akaushi hangers. It is soft and has an attractive deep reddish pink color. Yes, it's served with a tricolor of black garlic sauce, white beans, and pickled red cherry tomatoes that burst with acidity with every bite of the meat. But the twist here is that the entire plate is covered with a black sheet of eggplant “paper”. The vegetables are charred, dehydrated, and put back into sheets, like a thin blanket of baba ganoush. It's flavorful and matches the steak, but the real draw is the sheer humor of ordering a $32 plate covered in a dark black sheet. 1920 Greenville Avenue
Wagyu beef picanha, $55
The charred carrot mole gives the picanha a sweet, nutty, smoky flavor and mild spice. There's nothing better than a medium-rare center cut dipped in mole. One of the best steaks I've had all year. Our edge slices were a bit gray, but can be woven into interesting flavor combinations. It tastes great with the sauce, but it's even better with a bright, herbal side of chayote-lime slaw. 1400 N. Riverfront Blvd.
Smoked bavette with shishito pepper salsa $19.50
Lolo starts with bavette, an underrated cut, and lightly smokes it before finishing the meat on the grill. But the real star is the acidity. Each bite of beef is layered with salsa verde made with pickled onions and shito peppers. If you like your steak with a little spice, don't miss this menu. It's also a great value compared to other slabs on our list. 1812 N. Haskell Ave.; 14999 Montfort Dr.
Arachella, $40
Revolver Gastro Cantina is more than just a place for delicious tacos, birria wontons, and Mexican Manhattan cocktails. There is also a hidden menu at the steakhouse. Arachella, or skirt steak, is produced at 44 Farms and is a thin cut, grilled until it still has a rosy pink stripe down the center and topped edge-to-edge with serrano chimichurri. Served with rich mashed beans, grilled cactus paddles, two salsas, and a basket of tortillas, it's an instantly memorable meal. It's even more delicious when you assemble your own tacos. 2646 Elm Street
Ribeye enchilada, $24
Traditional Mexican bistec plates often use beef cut so thinly that there is no room for color in the center. At Ruins, we take this style even further by using sliced, marbled ribeye, sharp tomatillos, and served with four crispy enchiladas potocina stuffed with salsa, guacamole, and cheese, neatly folded. Serve dipped in salsa. Why don't more steakhouses offer a side enchilada? 2653 Commerce Street
Wagyu tataki $30.50
The coulottes here are small cuts about the size of a stick of butter, and are carefully baked to the point that they retain a deep pink color in the center. It is topped with a sauce called “Brussels Chimichurri'', which has a very nutty and umami flavor, almost like a vegetable pesto. On the side, a modern form made with egg and miso is topped with sesame seeds, providing a creamy, rich dip for the beef. 2817 Maple Avenue
This story was published in the November issue of D Magazine. Write destination [email protected].
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Brian Reinhart
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Brian Reinhart became D Magazine's dining critic in 2022 after six years writing about restaurants for the magazine. dallas observer And that Dallas Morning News.
