In the culinary world, “fondo” is a term used to describe bits of meat or vegetables that stick to the bottom of a hot pot and become caramelized and brown. These flavorful parts are the basis of taste.
For Jenny Kelly and Brandon Moore, the husband-and-wife duo who opened a new lunch and aperitif spot of the same name in downtown Dallas, “fond” also has other meanings.
“We like to offer a cool culinary experience,” Kelly says. “We love hospitality, and we love Dallas. We like each other.”
Kelly spent seven years planning special dinner parties through the hugely popular Frank's, which operated in Deep Ellum until 2019. After closing Frank's, she partnered with Moore to run Better Half Bistro, a pop-up shop known for its French cuisine. Inspired menu and Detroit style pizza. Mr. Moore was a pickle enthusiast and owner of The Pickling Collective.
A brick-and-mortar store has always been a dream, and over the past two years the couple has come up with a concept that showcases what Moore calls their “greatest hits.” Fond quietly opened in September in a stylish space at the foot of Santander Tower.
“We're excited to be able to try things out, roll out new things, do new specials and have fun,” he says.
After securing the location, the couple concluded that downtown Dallas needed an elevated lunch program, Kelly said. Lunch will be served from 11am to 2pm, reopening for aperitif at 3pm and remaining open until 7pm. Fond is open Monday through Friday only.
The idea is for guests to stop by for a delicious lunch or enjoy a snack or drink after work (or even right before work) before diving into dinner.
The lunch menu includes share plates, salads and soups, sandwiches, desserts, daily specials, and a to-go section. All items are slightly higher level and just enough to taste the difference. The turkey in the Tower Club Sandwich, named after the social club on the 48th floor of the Santander Tower, is sous vide cooked in-house for 12 hours. It's thinly sliced and piled high with cheddar cheese, Swiss cheese, tomato, aioli, and crispy, salty pork belly instead of bacon.
Lunch and aperitif menus include batched cocktails, local and specialty beers, and an exclusive natural wine program. Kelly and Moore got into the world of natural wine around the same time, and Kelly also believes that natural wine pairs better with food. The couple wants to feature Texas natural wine producers like Soto Vino and Crown Winery, and Moore said she tries to stock as many bottles as possible on the shelves.
Perhaps Better Half Bistro's biggest hit is the Detroit-style pizza on Moore's aperitif menu. Each one is topped with fluffy sourdough dough with different sauces and toppings. The Better Half Pizza features Jimmy's sausage, broccoli rabe, Parmesan cheese, and a house-made vodka sauce with a secret cheese blend.
Fans may also recognize El Carrot, a dish featured on menus at previous pop-ups and private dinner parties. Fond's debut, El Carrot, is an erotic take on summer. He sous vide three large carrots for two hours and serve them with tagine aioli, cotija cheese, sunflower seeds and cilantro.
“Carrots are a very basic vegetable, and we cook them just like filet mignon,” Kelly says. “How can I improve the things I’ve valued all my life in a different way?”
This article was originally published in the November issue of D MagazineHello dear” Write destination [email protected].
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Natalie Kemounkun
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Natalie Kemounkoon joined D Magazine in 2022 as Online Dining Editor. She previously worked at Dallas Morning News.
